Hi,
We have just got back from visiting Aotea/Great Barrier Island for a 3 day bike packing trip with Mike, Elly, Tom, Andrew, Hama and myself. What a great place to visit. Wow.
We totally got the best weather window too. The north has been battered and hammered by deadly weather in recent weeks. And it seems to continue, but more down southern parts. And our 3 days managed to be sunny and warm.
Mike and I flew to Auckland Thursday night, with an Uber trip from home that Tom ordered, picking him up along the way. Mike tried to check in for a paper boarding pass and got told the machine couldn't do it. And when he questioned what was wrong (we had electronic passes), he got asked if we wanted the earlier flight. Yes, we did.
We got moved onto the earlier flight, although scattered through the plane. We rushed through empty security and we were landing in Auckland a lot earlier than we thought. Uber to the Surf and Snow backpackers on Albert St where Tom checked in with his passport, as directed. But Mike and I were not super happy to bring our passports with us for the weekend. Fortunately they said it would be ok to use photos "just this one time".
Readers. This is the one time we will stay there. As Mike said: I've stayed in bad places, this was the worst ever.
Coming from Mike, you know this is not something lightly said. He would sleep on most floors! Tom disappeared up to the 3rd floor and we found our double room on the second floor with plans to meet at reception at 5.45am. Our room had no windows, really high ceilings (must have been an old office building once) with a loud, ineffective ducted air across at ceiling height, no bedside lights, a broken pedestal fan, one holey bottom sheet where we could see the mattress in places and an old duvet.
We were roasting hot so we slept on top of the duvet. And despite waking up through the night, we did get some sleep.
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| Friday morning early start |
We walked from the hostel to the big carpark and found the car on the 5th floor, with our three bikes in there. It was probably 6.10am at this stage. We extricated the bikes and got the wheels back on. Got all the gear loaded up. We had a 7am check in at the Sealink ferry to meet. We were riding down the car park levels by 6:40am and across the road to the cycle path with plenty of time to cross the Viaduct bridge (why is it called that?) and check in well before 7am.
We paid $20 extra each way per bike on top of our foot passage.
We got on the ferry with about 12 other vehicles and lashed our bikes to the ship in various places. Tom's friend Hama was a bit late - the police had pulled them over on the way to the ferry. Note - bring your own bungee cords to help with lashing to the ship. The rope they have is not super easy to lash the bike on with.
We settled into a spot on the outside and enjoyed the 4 hour ferry ride out through the Hauraki Gulf, past the Coromandel and many islands.
We got into Tryphena around midday and rode for 2 km to Mulberry Grove Cafe & Store. The road was down to one-way due to a slip. We got some lunch there while we waited to see if Elly and Andrew would appear. They had arrived in Whangaparapara the day before and set up in Harataonga. Sure enough, as we finished our lunch, they both arrived happy to see they did not need to ride all the way to the port itself. They were diverted to Whangaparapara because a huge truck on their ferry could not get past the slip we just rode through. Instead the truck had to contend with twisty gravel roads.
We headed up the gravel road called Rosalie Bay Road. This is where my bike-pushing holiday started. Hot steep gravel roads were to become a thing.
It wasn't long before Elly was asking if she could take my pannier also. I gamely continued. But the next time she asked in Claris, I knew she had my number.
After Medland beach, there were two headlands to climb. I pushed up them too. We stopped for a rest close to Claris and Elly then took my pannier. By this stage I was feeling a bit sick and my vision was closing. So yes, good call Elly. I might have been a bit too hot. Mike took this opportunity to call and rearrange a flight he had for next week.
We got in late. Maybe 18:00 or so. Elly and Tom had gone off to see Windy Canyon on their way over. Hama was setting up his sleeping system. I pitched the tent close to a big leafy tree. Our bikes were under the tree completely.
Up on Saturday morning to get away for day 2. Hama had all his gear on his back for day 1. His back did not enjoy that, so he pulled a lot of gear out and lashed it to his handlebars. This was a lot better but he decided he would ride with me and Mike and stick to the roads. He was a machine and offered a lot of encouragement as we rode together for the day.
We had a great sleep. The birds were a bit noisy. Kākā, pateke, tui, kereru and ruru were all heard in great numbers. But that just lent the place even more charm, if you ask me. No sandflies. Winner!
We got away from Haratoanga by about 8.30am. Hama, Mike and I might have pushed a bit again getting out of Harataonga. Okay. It was me. I was pushing. They might have pushed to make sure I was not too far behind.
Around 16:30, Tom, Andrew and Elly rode in. Turns out the coastal walkway was passable - although one of the slips needed the gear taken off the bikes and they passed them through treefall. Then they came over the Forest Loop and down the gravel road to Green site.
Mike got tea ready and Elly and Tom finally had pasta (there was a shop in Port Fitzroy) for tea. While my tea was "cooking" I went for a swim. The tide was well in and lapping at the edge of the campsite. The water was so warm. The top 30 or 40 cm was like a bath with a cooler temperature lower down. Super nice. Rinsed off under the tap afterwards.
Got to Medland Beach and tackled the last big hill. This was sealed at least. But I was still pushing for a lot of it.
Fri: nice staff member got us on early flight, scattered around the plane
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| Unpacking the bikes from the car at 6:10am |
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| Checking in at the ferry terminal |
We got on the ferry with about 12 other vehicles and lashed our bikes to the ship in various places. Tom's friend Hama was a bit late - the police had pulled them over on the way to the ferry. Note - bring your own bungee cords to help with lashing to the ship. The rope they have is not super easy to lash the bike on with.
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| Lashing the bikes onto the ferry |
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| Bike rack - kinda |
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| Iconic pic |
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| Mike is so ready |
We settled into a spot on the outside and enjoyed the 4 hour ferry ride out through the Hauraki Gulf, past the Coromandel and many islands.
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| Beautiful cruise out to the island |
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| Hello Tryphena |
We got into Tryphena around midday and rode for 2 km to Mulberry Grove Cafe & Store. The road was down to one-way due to a slip. We got some lunch there while we waited to see if Elly and Andrew would appear. They had arrived in Whangaparapara the day before and set up in Harataonga. Sure enough, as we finished our lunch, they both arrived happy to see they did not need to ride all the way to the port itself. They were diverted to Whangaparapara because a huge truck on their ferry could not get past the slip we just rode through. Instead the truck had to contend with twisty gravel roads.
Andrew took my dry bag at this stage. Before we'd even started. He knew.
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| Mulberry Grove cafe and store view |
We headed up the gravel road called Rosalie Bay Road. This is where my bike-pushing holiday started. Hot steep gravel roads were to become a thing.
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| Route up Rosalie Bay Road to Kowhai track |
It wasn't long before Elly was asking if she could take my pannier also. I gamely continued. But the next time she asked in Claris, I knew she had my number.
Anyway at the top of this huge hill (270m vertical climb) we dropped off into a long descent towards Medland Beach, down the Kowhai track. It was a bit steep for me and with my pannier and backpack, I did not negotiate any of the switchbacks. A shuffle around them was more my style. The seat post was very low and Andrew was giving me tips as we went. The creek beds were mostly dry. There were a few bridges and a few steps, some boardwalk. And some of these gullies had short steep ascents out of them.
But it was very nice. And if I had no extra gear and hadn't been slogging up the massive hill, I might have almost been having fun. I admit to being very happy to pop out into the flat beach at Medland after that.
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| View from top of the first hill |
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| View into the other coast |
After Medland beach, there were two headlands to climb. I pushed up them too. We stopped for a rest close to Claris and Elly then took my pannier. By this stage I was feeling a bit sick and my vision was closing. So yes, good call Elly. I might have been a bit too hot. Mike took this opportunity to call and rearrange a flight he had for next week.
I pottered on with Andrew and with no gear I did actually get up some hills. Mike caught us up on the hill to Awana and we rode together up the last hill before the descent to Harataonga.
All the drivers on the roads were super courteous and friendly. Everyone gave us a wave (except the last day where this woman seemed to be terrified about descending into Medland Beach and was gripping her steering wheel with fixed determination and not moving her hands off the wheel for anything). One group drove by at one point and Mike said to me: that looked like Chloe Swarbrick. And funnily enough, when he said that, I thought she did too. Mike found an article to say she was driving around the motu to check the storm damage. So it was her!
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| Harataonga campsite |
We got in late. Maybe 18:00 or so. Elly and Tom had gone off to see Windy Canyon on their way over. Hama was setting up his sleeping system. I pitched the tent close to a big leafy tree. Our bikes were under the tree completely.
Mike boiled up water for our Real Meals dehydrated meals. And the local mumma pateke came to beg for food with her 3 ducklings. Elly went to the beach with Tom for a swim before they had couscous for their dinner.
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| Getting dinner ready |
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| Pateke comes to visit with her ducklings |
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| Striking the tent Saturday morning |
Up on Saturday morning to get away for day 2. Hama had all his gear on his back for day 1. His back did not enjoy that, so he pulled a lot of gear out and lashed it to his handlebars. This was a lot better but he decided he would ride with me and Mike and stick to the roads. He was a machine and offered a lot of encouragement as we rode together for the day.
Elly was going to go via Aotea Road to Port Fitzroy and wait for Tom and Andrew. They were going to tackle the "closed" Haratoanga coastal walk. The advice was it was closed due to slips.
Haratoanga was a great campsite. Andrew and Elly had to share it Friday night with the Year 13s from Warkworth College. But we had hardly anyone else there. The toilets were clean and the food shelter area was great. You could see a glimpse of the sea from the campsite but you had to walk a bit to get to the beach proper. I loved this place.
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| Big tree where we camped |
Haratoanga was a great campsite. Andrew and Elly had to share it Friday night with the Year 13s from Warkworth College. But we had hardly anyone else there. The toilets were clean and the food shelter area was great. You could see a glimpse of the sea from the campsite but you had to walk a bit to get to the beach proper. I loved this place.
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| Bike is ready |
We had a great sleep. The birds were a bit noisy. Kākā, pateke, tui, kereru and ruru were all heard in great numbers. But that just lent the place even more charm, if you ask me. No sandflies. Winner!
Up to another nice day and we got brekkie ready and enjoyed a relaxed morning while the dew dried out from our tents.
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| Views of beaches |
We got away from Haratoanga by about 8.30am. Hama, Mike and I might have pushed a bit again getting out of Harataonga. Okay. It was me. I was pushing. They might have pushed to make sure I was not too far behind.
Actually, on steep parts, I could almost keep up with them pushing while they ground their way up. The key thing is: never stop. Just keep going. (This is Nicola's voice in my head now. Her Spring Challenge mantra).
Hama, Mike and I turned off at the Donald Trump (aka the dump) just before Claris to the Whangaparapara road. This turned into gravel at the Kaitoke Hot Springs. We kept going. Yes, I pushed again. Push a bit. Get back on. Push again. At one stage a ute towing a boat crawled past me and asked if I wanted to put the bike in the back of the boat. I said no thank you. And they said: good on you.
See? Super friendly.
There was a rumour that a cafe existed in Whangaparapara. We rode around and found no evidence. We did see the Sealink ferry in and a semi trailer that had passed us on the way over (while we recuperated at the top a pilot ute with flashing hazard lights and a radio stopped as the semi came up the hill and disappeared down). But no cafe.
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| Old gold stamping site |
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| Green campsite |
There was a rumour that a cafe existed in Whangaparapara. We rode around and found no evidence. We did see the Sealink ferry in and a semi trailer that had passed us on the way over (while we recuperated at the top a pilot ute with flashing hazard lights and a radio stopped as the semi came up the hill and disappeared down). But no cafe.
It would have been around 12:30pm by the time we cycled back up to the gate for the Tramway track and Green site. Time We decided to just use the inner with no fly. We were snuggled under a big tree. Hama set up next to the shelter.
We watched as the tide slowly came in through the afternoon. Mike and Hama went for a walk to see an old mill and go into the port area again. I read my book. And took lots of photos.
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| Watching the tide come in |
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| No fly! |
Around 16:30, Tom, Andrew and Elly rode in. Turns out the coastal walkway was passable - although one of the slips needed the gear taken off the bikes and they passed them through treefall. Then they came over the Forest Loop and down the gravel road to Green site.
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| Andrew stretching out |
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| Ready for sleep |
Mike got tea ready and Elly and Tom finally had pasta (there was a shop in Port Fitzroy) for tea. While my tea was "cooking" I went for a swim. The tide was well in and lapping at the edge of the campsite. The water was so warm. The top 30 or 40 cm was like a bath with a cooler temperature lower down. Super nice. Rinsed off under the tap afterwards.
We were all in bed around 19:30. The mozzies were out in force and we did get a few in the tent. Poor Hama woke up covered in bites.
Bit of cloud cover when we woke up. Earlier up as we had a ferry deadline in Tryphena. We struck the tent and had our brekkie and were away by 7:45am.
Back up the gravel road (Mike rode the entire way with Hama chatting to him to distract him). The weather was warm and grey and we did get a few light drops of rain but it did not make the road wet at all. Over to Claris. My Fat Puku (good cafe there) was shut, and not open for another 12 mins (9am on Sunday) so we kept going.
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| Morning views |
Got to Medland Beach and tackled the last big hill. This was sealed at least. But I was still pushing for a lot of it.
We got to Mulberry Grove Cafe and Store nice and early. We all ordered non dehydrated food. And it was so good.
Andrew wasn't far behind us. And he would have been even closer if he hadn't left his bag at the top of the first hill and only realised when he was close to Claris. So he rode back up the hill to retrieve it. Poor Andrew.
But he tucked into some food at Mulberry Grove too. We headed over to the port at 12:00 (super early for our 1pm check in) and lashed our bikes to the ferry. Tom and Elly arrived as we were doing that. And we found a good spot inside and then started trying the ferry food too.
About 11 vehicles on-board and a few foot passengers.
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| Back on the ferry |
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| Sea quest |
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| Looking back |
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| Hello again Auckland |
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| Our apartment |
We had a lovely cruise back to Auckland. Got in at 18:00 after getting away at 13:45 or so. We rode along the viaduct, timing the bridge for a moment when a boat actually came in and needed the space to pass in. Cool. We stopped to eat at some food stalls. I got some good friend rice and noodles and egg with a roasted corn cob.
Found the car. Packed up the bikes and squashed them all in. Then I drove with Tom to the apartment while the others walked. Same time. Hahah. The apartment was lovely. The shower felt great after 3 days on the bike and camping.
Thank you so much to everyone. I had such a great time. I loved Aotea. As soon as I stepped foot there, I was saying to Andrew that we need to come with Sally and eBikes and explore it all again. Great company - thank you for looking after me so well.
Love,
Angela
Notes from Mike:
Hostel was terrible. Ive stayed in bad places, this was the worst ever
Sat: up early, 5:20am to execute the plan. Check out by 6. Walked with Tom to where the car was parked. Reassemble bikes, double check the packing , take some things out and put some things in. All sorted and biking to the ferry terminal in good time .
Now, where were we? Oh yes. Easy to get on the ferry. Awkwardly brought our bikes inside and checked in. Then pushed them onto the ferry and lashed them down with random bits of rope.
Met Tom's mate Hama, coming last minute because the cops pulled him over on his bike!
How will this biking thing go? Ive never biked about with a loaded bike like this, 12kg of stuff strewn about the bike. Actually I've not biked at all, properly, for many years. A bit of trepidation mainly mixed with anticipation and excitement.
Sailing was slow and comfortable. Four hours later we were pulling into Tryphena and wandering off the boat.
Andrew and Elly came across a couple of days before and were there waiting for us at the local café. We tucked into pies and cold drinks before leaving for our first days riding.
First up - a slog uphill up a gravel road. No mucking about! It was hard and the heat baked down. I got into a granny gear and ground slowly but relatively comfortably up the hill. We were all at slightly different paces, my pace may well have been the slowest.
Eventually the climb broke out into the top. 260m vertical.
Down a little way to the kowhai track. Now we were sending it down a steep dirt track with switchbacks and excitement. Well. Some of us were sending it. I rode hard on the brakes all the way with white knuckles and wide eyes.
Sooner or later we reached the end of the descent and made it back to sealed road. Some nicer flattish riding to get to Claris which is the biggest town we've seen (which doesn't say much). I grabbed half an hour since ther was good phone signal to rebook flights for my next adventure (more on that later! )
Two and a half hills to slog over and the turnoff to Harataonga campground appeared. Alas more slogging up a gravel road, including pushing. Then a nice downhill to a gorgeous wee camp spot.
