Friday, September 27, 2019

The air's getting thin!

Day 6 - Forest Camp (2560m)-Rest Camp-Low Camp-Bidal Danda (3250m)

Still rainy, still cloudy. Porridge and pancakes for breakfast. In the morning we played with buffalo in the paddock just above the guest house. Very tame and friendly. I think they were expecting treats.

A short day today but steeply up. Muddy, misty and Rhododendron goblin forest felt very Tararuas-like. We met a new breed of bigger, fatter, tree climbing leeches. Lots of big steep rooty steps to get up. Very grateful for 'Quads by QBPT'.


Thursday, September 26, 2019

Forest Camp

Day 5 - Pothana (1980m)-Forest Camp (2560m)

Torrential rain and thunder and lightning overnight cleared to a misty cloudy day with still no mountains to be seen, but beautiful goblin forest all day.

We were up kindof early. I'm still shaking down the morning routine but getting there - need to move a few more things like aquatabs into my day pack and I'll be there. Yummy dal and beans with tibetan bread and boiled egg (that I gave away).

Hiking steadily upwards, much easier than the Poon Hill ascent and misty conditions made for nice walking conditions, not too cool and not too warm. Cruisy pace that I'm finding quite easy. Parka on and off. Feels like the Tararuas with the mud and the goblin forest.

Wednesday, September 25, 2019

The trekking begins

Day 4 - Pokhara (800m)-Sarangkot-Naudanda (1440m)-Dhampus-Pothana (1850m)

Up at 6, ready and packed at 6:45. Our trek begins today with a drive to our road-end and a short-ish walk in to our first night in a guesthouse at Pothana.

Tuesday, September 24, 2019

Pokhara by bus

Day 3 - Kathmandu-Pokhara

Up at 5:30am for early breakfast and 7am departure.  We're off to Pokhara, 200km away, by bus. It's going to take 8 hours.

This time we were on a public 'luxury' bus, sharing with other foreigners and more well-to-do locals. The first part of the journey, through Kathmandu and over and down a steep descent out of the Kathmandu valley, went nice and quickly. Often you're stuck for ages here with breakdowns and traffic jams. The bus was pretty comfy - it's a stretch to call it 'luxury' but it was pretty good - and the road and the drivers seemed less insane (or maybe I'm just used to it now).

Monday, September 23, 2019

Monkey Temple


Day 2 - Swayambhunath

Up not too early for buffet breakfast. Today was Swayambhunath (Monkey Temple) day with Deepak our guide. He was really good, even compared to the other excellent local guides that Expansion finds for us. Friendly, articulate and with lots of really good relevant information. I learned lots from him.

It was hard to remember Kathmandu as we walked there and back. Went to a Thangka school at the Swayambhunah site which was fascinating but slightly awkwardly nobody wanted to buy anything. Then to an outdoor gear wholesaler where we stocked up on cheap North Fake gear for our trek. I bought hiking pants, t-shirts and dry bags.

I waited downstairs for Phillipa to arrive, with beer in hand courtesy of the friendly helpful waiter the hotel now had on staff. She was shattered! Dinner was nice buffet at the hotel. Still, I missed the Tasi Dahgeri Dal Baht of old. Early night ready for an early start.

Sunday, September 22, 2019

To Nepal

The start of our Nepal 2019 adventure! Watch this space, I'll post more as I type days in from my diary.

Day 0-1 - Wellington-Auckland-Guangzhou-Kathmandu


Familiarity breeds taking things for granted. It was Saturday, we were leaving around 4pm, and I hadn't started to pack. But it was ok; everything I needed was in the garage and I knew what to bring.

After a fruitless forage through the garage, my "To do" list was now my "Buy in Nepal" list.

Still, 4pm saw me ready and packed. (Angela had packed a week ago of course.) We said goodbye to Toby who showed the correct amount of sadness at missing us and assured us he would be fine by himself for the next week.

Friday, September 20, 2019

Bharat's Nepal Gear List

For travelling and while in Kathmandu 

Comfortable street clothes that are light.
Money belt, pouch or secure pockets (passports can be safely locked in the safe in our hotel in Kathmandu)

For the trekking:

Lightweight walking boots or good solid walking shoes

Day pack (at least 30 litres) containing:

Rainproof jacket *
One warm jersey or polar fleece *
One thermal or Merino top
Warm hat and gloves *
Torch (or headlight) *
Sunhat *
Sunglasses *
Two 1L water bottles (or hydration pack and one water bottle) *
Water purifying tablets – at least 30 *
Two plastic bags (to keep stuff dry in your day bag in case of rain)
Toilet paper
Camera, charger/batteries and memory cards (pls don’t rely on phone for photos)
Diary, book, playing cards, pen etc
Hand sanitiser (1 small bottle, refill from Bharat's supply) *
Chap stick *
Sunscreen lotion *
Sroggen (snack food like muesli bars, glucose lollies) *
Insect repellent *

Personal first aid kit, containing:

Plasters, blister pads and strapping tape *
Antiflamme cream
Gastrolyte or similar (blackcurrant is the preferred Flavour…...) *
Anti diarrhoea tablets *
Panadol, or equivalent *
Antibiotics (two types, one for general infection and another for sickness)
Any special medication that you require (eg. Asthma inhaler, antihistamine etc)

Pack liner (or large, strong plastic bag) for porters to carry your gear in containing:

Two pairs of lightweight pants, shorts or tights (jeans are not appropriate)
Tracksuit pants (fat pants) *
Thermal underwear: spare long-sleeve and long-johns
Three t-shirts or active wear tops *
Three pairs of socks *
Hut shoes (sandals are fine)
Underwear (x4 is enough)
Towel (Smaller the better) *
Light sandals for the evening *
Sleeping bag (warm one with a compression bag) *
Swimming togs (for hot springs)
Toiletries – try to get small bottles of biodegradable soap and shampoo *

All items marked with a * can be purchased very cheaply in Kathmandu, Nepal. We will have time to do this before the trek.

What I forgot

  • Read and prep. Be ready to do stuff myself and not rely so much on others. As a 3 trip veteran I should be leading or helping, not following.
  • Maps of Kathmandu, Annapurna, Nepal. Be ready to take others on the walk from Thamel to Kathmandu Durbar Square and back. Be able to navigate on the trek and have situational awareness.
  • Lonely Planet. Lots of good background in there that's not so easy to find in one place.
  • Good First Aid kit with meds. Antibiotics, antiseptic cream and mosquito repellent were the things I was missing.
  • Supermarket bags Dry bags. They're essential for organising stuff. I discovered that dry bags are cheap in Nepal, around USD 5 each, and they're a great, permanent alternative to supermarket bags.
  • Gifts for kids. Grab a box of sample toothbrushes/toothpastes from your dentist. Grab pencils, pens and paper from the Warehouse. Balloons are popular too.
  • Good compact camera. My phone didn't cut it but we decided the DSLR plus lenses wasn't worth the weight, and the hassle to unpack/repack and keep dry. Ideal camera would be: light, waterproof, good optical telephoto zoom, not need recharge/runs on AAs, have bluetooth.
  • Hooks for over the bedroom door. Not enough hooks in the guesthouses for hanging wet stuff!
  • Paracord or string - as well as duct tape for running repairs
  • Power pack. We had no electricity (or wifi) for several days so both our phones ran down. So no strava, no camera, no kindle. Only a problem because of the weather, most guesthouses have solar electricity - but no sun meant no power. But also much easier to keep the power pack topped off and recharge devices in your room or backpack (while still using them).
  • Local SIM? Depending on how addicted to the Internet you are! Wifi is adequate for messenger and email most places but pretty unreliable, more so the further into the mountains you get. Local mobile data is faster and more reliable. In 2022 it cost rs2500 for the month with 30GB data. But an NCell SIM didn't work well in Annapurna - go with Nepal Telecom instead. 

Other Points

Talk to your doctor and get vaccinated, as well as getting any medication they think you should take with you (such as an antibiotic course).

Vaccinations that you should seriously think about getting are Hep A (often comes with Typhoid as well) and Tetanus (available from local GP 3 weeks before departure). Polio can also be useful, especially if you plan to travel other developing countries in the future. Once you get a Hep A shot, go back to the Doctor in 6 months and get a booster; you will have protection for the next 20 years!

We are not trekking in Malaria areas so Malaria tablets are not necessary.  There is a very minimal risk of Rabies and I feel that the cost involved makes this unnecessary.

Spending money:  $350 to $400 USD cash should be enough in $100 and $50 notes (available from any bank in NZ). Nepalis prefer large bills so the larger the bill the better the rate you might get. Bring any AUD you might have kicking about too, and exact change to pay for your visa on entry to Nepal. There are money machines that dispense local currency in Kathmandu and Pokhara so take your credit/debit card.

Much of the gear above (40L day bag, good sleeping bags, t-shirts, rain coats, head torches) can be purchased cheaply in Nepal. (usually ¼ of the cost)

Got old clothes to give away? Take them to Nepal; the porters and guides as well as other charities we know will welcome them, and we should have more than enough room.

Tim's healthy practices

  • Using hand sanitizer before every meal and after every ablution.
  • Using tablets to sterilize water even if it has been filtered. Only exception is sealed bottled water.
  • Buying/obtaining food from teahouses and restaurants known to Expansion.