2000 vertical metres down to Tolka

Day 9 - High Camp (3540m)-Bidal Danda-Forest Camp-Landruk (1565m)-Tolka 

Up early again after more vivid and strange dreams involving paragliding, a princess, and fixing political scandals. 5:30am for a 6:15 departure. Forewarned is forearmed, a pack of beef jerky got me down the hill in the early morning.

And a great morning it was, with spectacular views of valleys and dappled overcast. As we walked we could see into the valley we'd been to for the Poon Hill treks in 2014 and 2015, with Tadipani on the ridge-line and the trail to Jindu Danda; also further up, the trail to ABC. All laid out for us.

Phillipa's Sidebar - FOMO or Precipice?

by guest blogger Phillipa

View Tea House to High Camp

A hard decision to stay at View Tea House and not be sucked along with FOMO to base camp.

Base Camp

Day 8 - High Camp (3540m)-View Tea House (3900m)-Mardi Himal Base Camp (4400m)-High Camp (return)

4:30am seemed very early. We stumbled out of bed and put all our layers on ready for the cold. High expectations as we could see stars in the night sky, even an (upside down) Orion was visible. Angela was chuffed - she spotted the Big Dipper from 3-4 visible stars and my Star Map app confirmed her astronomical knowledge.

No breakfast this morning. I bolted down an OSM or two. Slightly chaotic start in the dark. With trying to organise the group when all you could see was head torches and glare, I think we left Tim and Phillipa behind (they weren't happy when they caught up). My torch was a bit hopeless but the dawn broke soon enough so I could see. Hai had a searchlight headtorch that lit up the entire valley.

Today was tough.

It's called High Camp for a reason

Day 7 - Bidal Danda (3250m) to High Camp (3540m)

Really short day - we're high now so taking it easy so we're ready and acclimatised for tomorrow. Just 90min walking - 9am to 10:30am.

Morning started hopefully with views through the mist and patches of blue trying to show through the overcast. I was up earlier than most and hung out looking at the views and chatting with other early risers.

The air's getting thin!

Day 6 - Forest Camp (2560m)-Rest Camp-Low Camp-Bidal Danda (3250m)

Still rainy, still cloudy. Porridge and pancakes for breakfast. In the morning we played with buffalo in the paddock just above the guest house. Very tame and friendly. I think they were expecting treats.

A short day today but steeply up. Muddy, misty and Rhododendron goblin forest felt very Tararuas-like. We met a new breed of bigger, fatter, tree climbing leeches. Lots of big steep rooty steps to get up. Very grateful for 'Quads by QBPT'.

Forest Camp

Day 5 - Pothana (1980m)-Forest Camp (2560m)

Torrential rain and thunder and lightning overnight cleared to a misty cloudy day with still no mountains to be seen, but beautiful goblin forest all day.

We were up kindof early. I'm still shaking down the morning routine but getting there - need to move a few more things like aquatabs into my day pack and I'll be there. Yummy dal and beans with tibetan bread and boiled egg (that I gave away).

Hiking steadily upwards, much easier than the Poon Hill ascent and misty conditions made for nice walking conditions, not too cool and not too warm. Cruisy pace that I'm finding quite easy. Parka on and off. Feels like the Tararuas with the mud and the goblin forest.

The trekking begins

Day 4 - Pokhara (800m)-Sarangkot-Naudanda (1440m)-Dhampus-Pothana (1850m)

Up at 6, ready and packed at 6:45. Our trek begins today with a drive to our road-end and a short-ish walk in to our first night in a guesthouse at Pothana.