It's called High Camp for a reason

Day 7 - Bidal Danda (3250m) to High Camp (3540m)

Really short day - we're high now so taking it easy so we're ready and acclimatised for tomorrow. Just 90min walking - 9am to 10:30am.

Morning started hopefully with views through the mist and patches of blue trying to show through the overcast. I was up earlier than most and hung out looking at the views and chatting with other early risers.


Unusual but tasty and filling breakfast of vege soup and Tibetan bread, for altitude and trekking energy. The Asian toilets convinced me to wander off up the back to pee. Just as I started I heard whoops and cheers, and realised that not only did Angela and Bachan have me directly in sight, but so did a gaggle of tourists looking down from the next lodge above us. Oops.

Today's walk was up a rocky, muddy track on a tussocky ridge. Could have been the Southern Crossing. Not too steep, like previous days - a little bit up, a little bit down as we follow the undulations of the ridgeline. Breathing is a bit hard now and I can feel that sudden exertion makes me a little faint. Not a bother though, and we're all doing well and have enough energy left over to chat as we walk.

Alas the promise of the early morning weather turned again into cloud, mist and drizzle. The photo above of the Panoramic Guest House that we passed on the way captures spirit of the whole trip, really. Massive, 7000m mountains piercing the sky. Somewhere behind all that fog.

We met quite a few people coming down, some with good reports of morning views. I took the group's first fall, spectacularly into a mud puddle and complete with a girlish squeal. I have to provide some entertainment for the others!

With remarkable speed, suddenly High Camp and Trekkers' Paradise Guest House emerged from the fog. We gratefully trudged up to their stone deck. A cute, tame sheep was tied up out front. We all played with it and scratched it behind the ears - until one of the locals said that the owner had bought it especially for dinner tonight. I decided not to get too emotionally attached to it.

We didn't have mutton for dinner, but the sheep soon disappeared and was never seen again.

Karna chats to the sheep. The sheep chats to Karna.

We shuffled in to a warm welcome from our host - and tomato soup, pasta and a super-sized samosa for lunch. I don't think I'm losing weight on this trip! [ed: oh yes I did, about 2.5kg all up, in spite of all the generous carb-rich food. Walking at altitude must be hard.] I definitely have a reputation for chilli now as Bachan gave me my own fresh green chilli to munch on. I coped, with a little bit of a sweat on, alternating between a nibble of chilli and a forkful of spaghetti. Yum.

Lunch and journal

How high is High Camp?

Bharat says: 3800m
The map says: 3540m
Expansion's itinerary says: 3700m
My altimeter watch says: 3650m
my iPhone GPS says: 3530m

We are somewhere near the height of Mt Cook which is 3736m / 12,328'. Not as many differences of opinion on that number!

At 2pm, a few hardier souls (Janette, Tracey, Hai and myself - along with Bachan, Expansion, Karna, Ravi and Sunit) headed out again to go some of the way up tomorrow's route. Conditions were quite rough - wind and driving rain. The track was carved into the side of the hill in places - even more like the Southern Crossing Dress circle in typical conditions there (at least, the ones I always find!). But I was comfy enough in my merino top, parka buttoned up tight, gloves and beanie, and shorts (yes, shorts. Longjohns for sure tomorrow.) Karna, Ravi and Sunit were so similey and happy - I'd have been a bit less happy to be sent out into the rain after settling in to play cards for the afternoon!

The weather teased us. The wind kept the ridge clear of mist with glimpses of steep spurs and gullies marching down to the valley far below, still shrouded in mist. A ridgeline in the distance came and went and threatened to join up with the mountains we knew awaited us.

After about 30min we'd reached nearly 3700m and it was time to go back. The clouds continued to tantalise and we even saw the sun carving a path through the clouds. What would the morning bring?

Back around 3:15pm, to Raam welcoming me with rum and hot water. It certainly was warming.

Gave the Asian toilet a go, figuring I couldn't wait 3 days for a western one. Very grateful again for my QBPT enhanced quads because I sure needed them. Bit sheepish though when Angela told me the 'shower' room had a western toilet.

16:30 - THE CLOUDS HAVE PARTED!
Still no mountains though

Tracey, Hai, Tim and I played Hearts for the afternoon, interspersed with dashing out to look at the threatening, teasing view. The wind kept the valley clear, behind us where the mountains were, less so...

17:45 - I SAW THE MOUNTAINS.

Bharat briefed us after dinner of randomly cut pizza and pasta. The key words 'leave at 5am' had everyone scurrying off to bed.