2000 vertical metres down to Tolka

Day 9 - High Camp (3540m)-Bidal Danda-Forest Camp-Landruk (1565m)-Tolka 

Up early again after more vivid and strange dreams involving paragliding, a princess, and fixing political scandals. 5:30am for a 6:15 departure. Forewarned is forearmed, a pack of beef jerky got me down the hill in the early morning.

And a great morning it was, with spectacular views of valleys and dappled overcast. As we walked we could see into the valley we'd been to for the Poon Hill treks in 2014 and 2015, with Tadipani on the ridge-line and the trail to Jindu Danda; also further up, the trail to ABC. All laid out for us.

Finally, just before our Bidal Danda breakfast stop, the clouds parted and

WE SAW THE MOUNTAINS.

Annapurna South

Hinuchile

Machupichere (through Tim's binoculars)

It was so pleasant, sitting out in the first proper sun all trip, eating Tibetan bread, egg and curry, and watching Annapurna South, Hinuchuile, Machupichere and Annaurna II come in and out of visiblility as the clouds blew past. No perfect clear views but great views nonetheless. Is the weather finally breaking after all this time?

Well - no. Soon after we left, the missed filled the valleys and the overcast reasserted itself. Still extremely pleasant walking through Rhododendron forest in the warm fine weather. More "traffic" coming up - mules carrying rice and other staples, porters carrying all sorts of goods - including a full size generator!, women carrying huge bundles of grass, and a gaggle of middle class Nepali trekkers.

As we walked, Tim told us the story of his Cambodian wife - how she ended up in NZ and how he courted her and proposed to her (he did it wrong!). Fascinating.

Soon we reached Forest Camp for lunch, volleyball (Tim and Anita), and civilisation in the form of electricity and wifi. But as we ate lunch, the rain started. We left between showers and soon reached the fork in the path to Dhampus (where we came from) and Landruk (where we are going today). Now the track became extremely steeply downhill. Two and a half hours of relentless steep, alternating between slippery flagstones and even slipperier clay and mud. We were now in intermittent showers and mist again which made it even more tricky. Landruk came into sight about 2/3 of the way down but it teased us, taking forever to arrive.

We sheltered on the porch of a half completed house and watched as the owner fed his flock of very tame goats. Soon a seemingly never ending stream of goats came trit trotting home to happily take up residence in the other stalls.

Landruk (it's not close)

Sheltering on the goatherd's porch

At last we reached Landruk around 4pm. Some of our party had really struggled with with the descent so this was very welcome. Lots of very tired people sitting around the tea table.

But, not rest for me, Angela and Karna. After a cup of tea we were back on the road, heading to Tolka for the night.

Fortunately the walk was very easy, along a flat enough 4WD track for 3km. A nice 45min stroll. On the way Karna told us about his family - wife, 15yo son, 78yo Dad - and his off season job - gardener (including, I've heard, lugging sacks and crates to get his muscles!).

Very soon we found ourselves crossing the huge, brand new bridge to Tolka and checking into the International Guest House. It's a particularly wonderful spot, with its courtyard, gazebo and kiosk/bar where the staff live and work.

We quickly droped our stuff in our 1st floor room and went back with Karna to see my Dad's chorten. It was great - just how we left it. A little creeper that we pulled off got it nice and clean and presentable for the next morning.

One other thing that hadn't changed was the number of leeches around the chorten. Angela pulled about twenty off her and Karna. I was smugly happy ... right til I took off my boots and discovered that they'd made it down my socks and were happily feasting away.

Since we got to choose dinner, it was Dal Bhat. Chatted to our fellow guests. A woman from Hong Kong, who worked in Finance and who had popped over to use some of her 5 days' leave per year; and a French couple who were travelling the world for a few months.

Then early to bed for an early start.