Base Camp

Day 8 - High Camp (3540m)-View Tea House (3900m)-Mardi Himal Base Camp (4400m)-High Camp (return)

4:30am seemed very early. We stumbled out of bed and put all our layers on ready for the cold. High expectations as we could see stars in the night sky, even an (upside down) Orion was visible. Angela was chuffed - she spotted the Big Dipper from 3-4 visible stars and my Star Map app confirmed her astronomical knowledge.

No breakfast this morning. I bolted down an OSM or two. Slightly chaotic start in the dark. With trying to organise the group when all you could see was head torches and glare, I think we left Tim and Phillipa behind (they weren't happy when they caught up). My torch was a bit hopeless but the dawn broke soon enough so I could see. Hai had a searchlight headtorch that lit up the entire valley.

Today was tough.


Breathing was hard, and the higher we went the harder it got. It was a slog. One foot after the other. Then breathe. Then another step.

The day slowly dawned full of hope. Great clear views down the valley with newly twinkling lights of the villages and the solid brightness of Pokhara. Impossibly steep faces of forest and terraced millet and rice. Still cloudy towards the mountains but glimpses of both Anapurna South and Muchupicheri. We passed farming on the way - an enclosure of yaks and a shepherd with some dogs and some very tame, contented sheep that were happy to pose for photos.

Baa - have you got my best side?

On the way Anita was struggling, on a cold, lack of sleep and being hit by the altitude. But she pushed through it and made it to the View Tea House - impressive.

After a stop for tea and a simple breakfast of flat bread and boiled eggs, we left Phillipa (see her story), Anita and Tim enjoying the stop and continued on to Base Camp.

This is where I should be writing about the clouds parting and the splendour of the mountains being finally revealed ... but it was not to be. The mist clagged in again and we trudged through the inside of clouds. It became really hard. Every step was an effort. Tussock and schist felt like Central Otago, even passing abandoned schist houses that could have been in Macetown or Macraes, if not for the Buddhist shrine outside.

Eventually we reached a solitary, unmanned tea house and a sign announcing Mardi Himal Base Camp - 4400m or 4500m depending on which sign you read. Whoops, cheers, bites of Whittaker's chocolate (thanks Angela!) and photos.

Then back we came. Much easier going down, I found, though others struggled.  Stopped at View Tea House for more tea, and then it started raining for our final descent.

The High Camp Guest House was a welcome sight and it was great to get into the warm. Tea, lunch, cards, chatting and dinner followed. Guest house very full - lots of new faces, from France and the US in residence. The mountains teased us just like last night but the weather appears to be improving.

Another early start tomorrow - 6am departure, 2000m descent to Landruk and then Angela and I will continue to Tolka. A big day but hopefully easier than today!