Paparoa Track - Moonlight Tops Hut to Pororari Hut

It was a long day and a hard day today - maybe it was the lack of sleep, maybe the day length, but I think part of it is ironically the smooth, stony, carefully graded track. It's hard work just taking one step after another on hard smooth pavement. I'd certainly recommend sneakers or walking shoes with some give in the sole, instead of my favourite tramping boots with their stiff soles and full leather uppers.

We were up and out of the hut by 8:22am, heading across the ridgeline to some of the most interesting views. First up was a huge escarpment with a massive vertical drop. The track carefully wound its way on the other side of the drop, touching it from time to time to give us a safe impression of height.

Bye hut!

Hello treeline

Onwards toward the escarpment

At one point we got a strong but brief smell of something weird. Gunpowder was the closest we could place it. Strange. But then, a few minutes later we smelt it again, as a huge billygoat stood by the track and ran off when he saw us. Now I know what billygoat smells like - not what I expected! And I also know at least one of the reasons why people don't like keeping billygoats to mow their lawns and suchlike.

We also found coal seams from time to time. Black rock in metre-wide layers. I suppose I'd never thought about it - but yes, it's just another mineral in the ground. 

We had a poignant view of Pike River mine, where 29 miners died in 2010. The Great Walk is in their memory. Recovery operations continue. There is very little to see - the portal into the hill and a ventilation portal above. Maybe it really is possible to mine in an area like this and still tread lightly on the land.

A massive slip near the end was likely the reason the track unfortunately didn't open on time (last year when Janine was supposed to be walking it). The earth was scoured clean, down to granite. A path with a steel fence had been chiseled into the side of the hill to let us pass.

Allyson and Janine navigate the slip

Another, smaller, more recent slip had been cut past by the rangers. Steps up and steps down.

We stopped for a hot chocolate at the Emergency Shelter at about the halfway mark of the day. From here the track descended in beautifully bermed switchbacks, down a spur and into the valley. Barren semi-alpine plants gave way to goblin forest and beech. Spectacular swing bridges took us safely over gullies and gorges. There was very little water in the various creeks, though just enough for me to refill my water bottle. I bet that's not the case when the legendary west coast rains come.

Thirsty work

Little waterfall, I bet it's spectacular after rain

This part of the track would be great fun on a bike. We saw very few bikers today though. The party that slept in Moonlight Tops with us, plus about 5 or so who were doing the whole thing in a day. I guess not many people were keen on getting up at the crack of dawn after New Years Eve!

Through the gaps

At last, Pororari Hut loomed into view. Our last ranger Henri had told us that it used to be surrounded by forest, but after a cyclone a couple of years ago smashed all the trees down, it now sat exposed and with great views.

We were all tired bunnies. I was planning to again sleep outside on the porch - but alas, light rain started around dusk and put paid to that idea. This didn't bode well for the morning. Oh well - we'd been very lucky so far.