Trekking begins

Day 4 - Pokhara-Nayapul (900m)-Hille (1470m)

Up early again for early start. Packed and ready 0620 for breakfast at Paradise again. Clearing weather - first sight of snow capped peaks.

Last coffee for 10 days?

Phewa Lake, Pokhara

Annapurna South rises over Lake Phewa

Expansion calls Pokhara the 'Queenstown of Nepal' and this is kinda true. Although the lake is weed filled and hills are mist shrouded. Felt much more liveable than Kathmandu; but definitely a tourist town. Hotels, spas, cafe-restaurants abounded. Proper streets with footpaths.

Pokhara in a few words:

• Quaint
• Nepali lakeside resort
• Fireflies!
• Touristy
• No horns
• Sedate
• Laid back
• Queenstown
• First sight of mountains

Loaded ourselves into a new bus wit a new driver. 90min drive to Nayapul. First real sights of countryside, driving through broad valley with rice paddies. Lots and lots of goats on the road! They come from Tibet and are herded for 6 days. Festival means lots are sacrificed on 7 October.

Then up and over a pass. Winding road, lots of switchbacks, bad condition. Single lane of tarmac in many places because edges of road broken away and are now gravel.

Nayapul is a small roadside stop, full of vans, taxis and buses. (If you're travelling independently, taxis would be effective transport.) Our porters loaded up. 2-3 duffel bags, 30 kg for each porter, hanging from a strap on their foreheads! They walked fast and with lots of breaks.

Nayapul

"Due date of cleaning: 21-12-2011"

We started walking around 10:00am. Mostly followed a new 4WD track with guest houses and tea houses every 30 min or so. Leisurely pace, easy-medium probably, but feeling my lack of fitness.

Picked up a fast flowing river, the Modi river, just like off Rob Roy Glacier near Matukituki.

Jimmy explains

Quite a few fellow trekkers but not too many to make it Tongariro Crossing style crowded. A few jeeps also went past.

After an hour or two it started to rain but it was so warm that my jacket wasn't needed.

Passed lots of kids, passed a primary school donation box and got blessing and red powder on my forehead for donating.

Tea and shelter at Shraddha Teahouse, Lamduwali

Stopped for tea after a couple of hours. The plan was to make Hille for lunch. Finally put on my parka which meant the weather promptly cleared up.

Passed a mandarin orchard in a gully with beautiful terracing.

Soya bean plants ringed the rice paddies. Why? Like roses at the end of grapevine rows?

Reached the Susila Guest House, Hille, around 3pm. Quite stiff and sore but I came right quickly enough.

Hille is a beautiful spot on the side of a mountain, surrounded by steep sided spurs. Quaint guesthouse like a Lord of the Rings set - rickety stairs to three storey high block of twin-share dorm rooms.

Played cards and had a yummy dinner.

Divvied up the toothbrushes we're going to give away to local kids.

Off to bed.

Our route. Hille to Gorepani looks steep.