And the trekking is over

10 Oct - Dhampus to Pokhara (by bus)

The news that our bus was indeed able to get up the road to collect us was met with general delight. Me, I wouldn't mind walking but I'm over another day of wearing wet smelly boots and wet smelly socks.

Tibetan bread, dal and boiled egg was a familiar breakfast. Then, something quite special. A Buddhist blessing for each of us from Sahila Dai the owner, to mark the end of the Dashain festival today. At first it was a little awkward - is this a touristy thing or is it real? One of our group quietly slipped away and Bechan - who I discovered was Christian when he prayed for my Dad and sister at Tolka, which I much appreciated - didn't participate either. But I took my cues off Sacchi, Atul and Expansion and based on their participation it all seemed genuine and heartfelt.

I have to say, the peace I felt when it was my turn to be blessed was powerful. Each blessing was unique and for the individual. 

After we tourists were blessed the porters all went up too, much more comfortable and jovial. 

Dhampus view

Onto the somewhat old and agricultural bus we filed, and down a slightly scary road (nothing like the Birethanti ride of terror though) we hurtled.  Narrow, bumpy, lots of switchbacks (I'm amazed we never needed two cuts at some of the hairpins). We picked up and dropped off one or two locals and were soon deposited back in Pokhara and Hotel Grand Holiday.

Our driver was awesome

Then onto the six lane expressway, amazing

Now we waited. The Dhampus bus had got us back too early and our rooms weren't ready. And somehow this appeared to be the thing to sort before we went to lunch. Washing, too, had to wait. I was more than happy sitting about chatting, but I did quietly pop across the road with Bharat and got my laundry in at the corner shop.

Eventually we all had rooms. Hannah's mild complaints about her last room saw her in a suite! And my room wasn't so bad either with a balcony and a big double bed.

Expansion offered the porters' services to clean all our boots for Rs200 or so. We felt pretty for this until it was explained to us that that was really good money for them and would be well appreciated. Okay then. I wasn't going to complain if they were making good coin!

Lunch was at Rosemary's, my fav place. We had slim brown envelopes for each porter's tips, all sorted out by Bharat already. But this time, lots of people put more money in and suddenly we had fat brown envelopes with about 5x the cash instead. I reckon well deserved, this was a particularly hard trip for Bechan, Karna, Rabi, Anmol and Hira. They faced rain and cold in sneakers and shorts and t-shirts, they helped us through potentially lethal stream crossings, the acted as tail-end charlies with 30kg hanging off their foreheads ... all while staying cheerful and happy.

The afternoon was "free" - change money, go shopping, sort your room out etc. I was starting to head out when I was pulled aside by Bechan to their (and my) favourite barber. What a sight! Trish and Jenny were getting pedicures. Expansion and then Bechan were getting haircuts and shaves.  And it was my turn. I got my edgy rebellious side on (well, what's left of it) and got a head shave (and a face shave). Every follicle but my eyebrows. 

There's something oddly relaxing about having a skilled barber run a cutthroat razor over your head, face and throat.

Then the upsell began. "Head massage to finish sir?" IT WAS SO GOOD. My incipient cold was causing me headache and sinus pain [the foreshadowing is crying out] and the head massage went a long way to fixing me. Before I knew it I had a supple neck and the knots in my shoulders were gone too. And my Rs600 haircut was a Rs2000 haircut and massage. SO GOOD.

Dinner was at Med5, same as when we arrived and just down from the hotel. Amazing as always. My  mistake this time was ordering a chili chicken starter. An enormous plate of delectable chili-ey chickeney goodness appeared, more like a large main than a starter. I desperately tried to give some away but sitting with the vegetarians gave me no hope. I only made 1/3 of the way through my main of chicken meatballs and spaghetti, and the whiskey/coffee sundae I'd been eyeing up was simply out of the question. 

Yum (but so full)

Between overeating and my cold gathering steam [so much foreshadowing], I uncharacteristically turned down the offer of heading to a live music bar and waddled off to bed early.