Good Morning, Good Morning: Back to my Dad's Chorten

Saturday, October 8, 2022

Back to my Dad's Chorten

8 Oct - Jhinu - Landruk - Tolka

Meto, meto! Himalayan bread and dal for breakfast. I never get sick of dal. I think there are two kinds of people - the ones that look forward to another dal meal and the ones that are just over it after 3-4 times.

I've been this way before but this time route is new - there is an incredible new swing bridge, towering over the valley and spanning a huge distance. It's an engineering marvel. Stacey would hate it.

It took me what felt like ten minutes' walk to cross it! Bharat says it saves the locals thirty minutes of down and then up compared to the old bridge down in the valley.

We descended to the river and a eventually a very old dodgy bridge to cross the fierce, muddy, fast flowing river. We had a long wait for a very nervous woman to shuffle across, with three points of contact. Georgina threw her bamboo pole down for me to catch - I missed it and it slid away down the cliff. Gah! But then we saw it peeping through the nettles and just before the steep bank into oblivion. Georgina bravely climbed through the nettles and retrieved it, with me hanging grimly onto her hand for counterbalance. Yay!

Stream crossing

Always good when you see the landslide sign AFTER you've crossed the landslide area

Slowly grimly crossing

Yeah, understandable

Bechan had us cross one at a time due to the age of the bridge. We waited and regrouped on the other side, in a beautiful grotto of moss and dripping water. But the memo didn't filter up to the other half of the group, so everybody piled across to Bechan's consternation.

Now we were back on the familiar river side walk, that reminds me so much of Totara Flats. The river and the side creeks were more fierce than in the past. There were more locals hanging about and working, and the milling wheels were spinning. I found a cute and playful but slightly disinterested kitten when we stopped for tea.

Millhouse

grindstone

Tea stop with sassy kitten. Sarah calmed her down

Then it was up, up, up to lunch at Landruk, via some beautiful waterfalls and bridges over cute bubbling streams.

Millet fields

I remember this waterfall!

The new Tolka bridge

The old Tolka bridge

It was just 40 minutes' walk along the 4wd track to get from Landruk to Tolka. For the first time since forever it seemed, the sun was out and there was a chance to dry all of our soggy gear. I dropped my bags at the familiar International Guest House and eagerly headed back to my Dad's chorten. It was still there and nicely preserved - but instead of a peaceful valley there was now a trout farm! It had been built around the chorten very carefully. I was very grateful to the locals to do that.

I cleaned it down of ivy and stuff and repositioned the old prayer flags from three years ago, still there.

After a short time we all headed back down and Hira cemented on the beautiful slate plaque that Expansion had had made for me, and I'd carried all this way. We wrapped the chorten in Katas that Expansion had brought, and a woolen scarf from Vivienne too. I said a few words about my Dad, about my sister. Then I stayed a while by myself.

When I got back, Expansion beckoned me into the owner's kitchen and the owners, Rupa and Jhak, shared Raksie and food with me. It felt good to be there.

Dinner was Dal Bat, the best Dal Bat ever. In the evening it cleared, revealing Annapurna South towering over the valley, as well as the full moon, Venus, and stars. We all danced and sang and talked. So much fun. This is what it's all about.