Little bit up, little bit down

Day 9 - Tolka (1750m)-Deurali (2100m)-Pothana (2050m)-Dhampus (1700m)

Overnight, a brand new - just 13 days old - jeep turned up, the proud purchase of the guest house owners (International Guest House). There is a new 4WD track put in in the last 6 months into Tolka and they are going to make the most of the opportunities this brings.

Up at 5:30am again to wander down to the memorial and watch the sunrise over Annapurna South. Crystal clear morning yet again. Back to see others waking up and puzzled where I'd been.

Dawn over Annapurna South. That's what my Dad sees each morning.

A pretty easy day today.  Off through Tolka village and followed the 4WD track for a bit; then off the track and up, up, up steps. Fairly steep but not too long. Sunny and hot. In for tea at Deurali in good time. Passed wild marijuana plants on the way (hmm, a bit too well tended and pruned to be wild!).

Native flora

From Deurali to Pothana we undulated along a ridge. Felt very New Zealand like - plenty of grass and sparser trees. Great for picnics!

Arrows by Jimmy to show us the way

Pothana, our lunch stop, was reasonably big and cute. We lunched at the Gurung Guest House which was clearly party central with a bar in the corner and lights all around. They cranked up the stereo for us. Awful country music followed by Linkin Park. Slightly eclectic.

We ate outside, started to get first spots of rain. I jacketed up; Graham didn't because it wasn't really raining.

It's just moist

The not-rain got steadily heavier until it was quite torrential. Graham still in denial.

Got to really neat Dhampur guest house - Hotel Green Land - in the rain. Little bit of chaos sorting out rooms but got there in the end. Pete and I got an en suite.

Leeches! Leeches in the grass! We all got bitten. Pete ran around with a big leech hanging off his leg, showing people, til some local threw salt on it.

Played cards with porters and Ali. Ali learning Nepali. Me not so much.

Dal bhat for dinner! at last! And chicken too. Prepared by the hotel owner. Stand-out meal in a trip full of great food.

Bharat chatted to owner for a bit after dinner, I listened in. Owner is 'mayor' of the village and well respected. 2 of his 3 kids are at boarding school in Pokhara. New generation is different. Son wants to go to Japan to study, after he has finished school. Not interested in family business. Owner can't understand attraction of more money but a lowly place in a developed country; versus having less cash but running your own business, farming, having local respect.

Porters sang and danced again but only two songs. They still needed to eat!

To bed relatively early, generator switched off around 9:30pm. I'm finishing this journal entry off by torchlight.

Last day trekking tomorrow. Boo, hiss. Actually no - last day this trip.